Agatha does nothing by halves. Take a look at her Piedmont trip and get ideas and inspiration to create your own fabulous trip!
Nestled in the picturesque hills of northern Italy, Piedmont invites with a gastronomic symphony that captivates the senses. Describing the region and its surrounding villages though, in general terms, is not an easy task; it is a complex area - challenging enough to warrant a book let alone a short article! But let's give it a shot. We are in Italy, in the province of Cuneo.
The Langhe region lies within Piedmont, at the East of the Tanaro River - It holds the prestigious title of a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a haven for food enthusiasts. An area of outstanding beauty, gently rolling hills, well kept vineyards, hazelnut orchards, forests and home to the International White Truffle Fair and the birth place of the Slow Food Movement. In the right spot, you can see the whole Alpine range, from the Maritime Alps in Italy to the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It is a glamorous landscape that somehow, has paused in time - in essence, the Langhe is still a rural area, where elements of the fine world meets simplicity - a beautiful contrast!
The region is home for all 11 villages of producing Nebbiolo grapes for Barolo wines. Heading to the Langhe don’t skip any of the surrounding villages: Barolo, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglioni Faletto, Novello and Cherasco. They are all very charming in their own right. Also, make time for The Barolo Chapel, The Barolo Museum, Alba, Torre di Barbaresco and Roero ... there is plenty out there to explore! The Langhe is only an hour away from Turin, so access is easy and most villages still are under the radar.
LANGHE
As the season peaks, we head out on the hunt for fine wines, home cooked food, white truffles, cheeses, hazelnuts, castles, sun kissed peaches, foggy mornings and a marvellous landscape. Our journey started in La Morra, a charming village, at over 500 meters in elevation, featuring over 60 producers. Home to 39 MGA vineyard Crus producing grapes for Barolo wines, La Morra covers 1,154 hectares in total with 828,59 hectares under vine and 532,22 hectares just producing Nebbiolo.
A JOURNEY THROUGH LA MORRA & MONFORTE D’ALBA
La Morra also makes a great base to stay and explore other villages as it is well-packed with restaurants, supermarkets, butchers, bakeries, cafes, and of course, wine shops & tasting rooms. It is also child friendly - Italians are a welcoming bunch! Although, easy to walk around - hiring a car is essential. There are 10 neighbouring Barolo producing towns to visit. You can reach most of them within 20-minute drive and the landscape is gorgeous! Sixteen minutes drive to the southeast of La Morra, lies Monforte d’Alba, home to 11 MGA vineyard Crus, rich in history, charming cobbled narrow roads, perched on the hill, with spectacular views of the Alps in the distance. Another gorgeous village to stop by or stay a few nights and explore it on foot. At the top, you will find a small amphitheatre where in the summer, concerts are played. In July and August, Monforte d’Alba hosts the Monfort in Jazz - an open-air jazz festival. Can you imagine an aperitif in the sun and a concert in the light evening breeze? Gorgeous! The town also offers great restaurants, art exhibitions, delicatessens...and the most impressive wine cellar. A must-visit, Le Case della Saracca, is a family-owned wine bar, restaurant and small hotel. The building is spectacular, formed by ancient walls and hand-dug caves. The modern style of glass and steel blends harmoniously with wood and stone, creating a tasteful contrast between a modern structure integrated into the Middle Ages! Stop by even if only for a glass of wine, ask if you can visit its cellar. Their collection is impressive - even by local standards!
AGRITURISMO
Agristurismo in Piemonte is a real gem, with an array of properties to chose from, varying from luxurious to rustic and authentic. During our stay, we chose a quaint family-run farmhouse, a stroll away from La Morra village (precisely 5 min walk)! The heart and soul of the place are the incredible Marisa, Franco and Martina. This welcoming Piedmontese family made us feel right at home with their warm hospitality. Albeit rustic, the accommodation is comfortable and very stylish. One noteworthy property to explore is Villa Savio, run by the same family. It is not just a place to stay. It’s practically a living museum. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, the Villa, was once upon a time Giovanni Savio’s home. Giovanni, (1863-1950) was a painter, who oversaw the first decoration of the Barolo Chapel as well as palaces and castles in the Langa (La Morra, Novello and Verduno).
Oh! He even painted the rooms of the Montecarlo casino! The Villa's walls are adorned with Giovanni's Pompeian-style frescoes, which remains beautifully kept and proudly maintained by the family. Franco also organises Truffle huntings, picnics in their own hazelnut orchard, and they rent out apartments in their winery and farm. The majority of their produce is locally sourced, they promote sustainable practices, make their own hazelnut paste – an artisan
version of “Nutella”, and they prepare beautiful cakes, jams and preserves,
For more information visit their website: www./www.agriturismoilgelso.it
RECOMMENDATIONS
Morra Restaurant
A restaurant for wine lovers. Beautifully cooked food. Gorgeous wine list. Delicious tasting menu.
Cooking classes also available (excellent by the way)! Matteo Morra – the Head Chef and Owner is extremely tuned to fine food and wine pairing. He is an exquisite host and cook.
Bovio Restaurant
Excellent wine producer. Gorgeous food. A welcome setting with a traditional atmosphere.
At high season (Oct/Nov), book well in advance.
Le Vigne Bio
Quirky, informal and relaxing. Younger crowd, super friendly. Some alternative wines on the list, including low intervention etc. Beautiful white truffles!
Nesto
Neighbourhood atmosphere, albeit quiet, food is rather delicious! Paolo will take excellentcare of you.
Casa Giuseppe Gabetti
Lovely al fresco option with a traditional menu. Take a seat outside and enjoy watching people passing by, kids playing in the square, the church bell ringing, and a tune or two by the street musician!
Wine not? Enoteca
Okay, Wine Not? isn’t a restaurant, but a must stop wine shop! Located in the centre of La Morra, Wine not?, is a small but well stocked family shop.
Paola, has a considered selection of wines, some of which you can taste! There you will learn more about local grapes varieties, producers, terroirs and styles. Her husband, Carlo Revello (and family) - who are behind the label Carlo Revello & Figli makes outstanding Barolos - ask for it!
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN LA MORRA & MONFORTE D’ALBA...(UNAPOLOGETICALLY)
Osteria Veglio, Osteria Arborina, L’Osteria del Vignaiolo and more! Well known restaurants. Unfortunately, we did not manage to try this time, but they are on the list for 2024! There are many jewels in other towns too which we recommend: Tre Galline, Campamac, Tre Case, to name a few!
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