Here are Abi's (L3 Grad from Premier Cru) tips and recommendations on where to go in Chinon, which she says caters for wine geeks and the fam in equal measure. So something for everyone. Abi loves to plan in advance and also thanks our L3 grad Charlotte (L3 Grad from Grand Cru) who hails from here also helped Abi with her planning. Read on...
The Loire Valley is a key wine region in western France. It follows the course of the Loire river on its long journey through the heart of France, from the inland hills of Auvergne to the plains on the French Atlantic coast near Nantes (Muscadet country). The region is highly significant in terms of both quantity and quality wine production. It generates vast quantities (around four hundred million litres each year) of everyday wines, as well as some of France's very finest and highest quality bottles. But the thing that makes it stand out (and such a challenge to learn) is the diversity of the wine. The wine styles made here range from the light, tart Muscadet and sweet, honeyed Bonnezeaux to the sparkling whites of Vouvray and juicy, tannic reds of Chinon and Saumur, and not forgetting the herbal freshness of the Savvy B’s of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé to the east.
There is so much to see and do in the region you really can’t go wrong, but here are my top recommendations pulled together from a two-week family holiday last summer. Our base was the beautiful historic town and wine appellation of Chinon. Chinon is located in the Touraine region of the Loire, just to the west of Tours. It’s the Loire’s largest red wine appellation (by volume) and one of It mostly makes red wines from Cabernet Franc, in a range of styles from light and accessible wines to complex and tannic wines, that require years of aging to really show their stuff. Chinon also makes small amounts of delicious rosé and teeny-tiny amounts of some truly mesmerizing white wines from Chenin Blanc.
The real wine geeks will know that it’s all about the big T in Chinon….Terroir. It is said that the terroir in Chinon is one of the most striking examples of the effect of terroir on wine in all of France. While I won’t begin to try and explain the in-depth geological reasons for this, at a very basic level Chinon covers the area where the Vienne river meets the Loire and here there are two common types of soils. Near the river the soils tend to be gravelly, with some sand or clay. But upslope from the river, the vineyards sit on hills and slopes made of giant beds of the local limestone and these two basic types of soils make very different types of wines. In a nutshell, the gravel soils make lighter Chinon’s. These are the sorts of wines you can drink young, maybe even chilled, while you picnic along the river. The limestone soils, on the other hand, can make wines that are more powerful, more structured, and worthy of reflection and discussion. Especially when the wine comes from old vines that have dug deep into the limestone, they can have layers of flavours, a wide range of textures, and the ability to evolve over time in the glass, or years in the cellar.
Chateau de Villeneuve - immaculate chateau, near the village of Parnay, good reds, but it’s their Chenin Blanc that’s beautiful and considered to be one of the best in the region.
Chateau de Parnay - fantastic tasting (we just walked in) they have become famous for their "Clos Entre les Murs" which translates to the ‘enclosure between the walls’ the wine is made from a small parcel of Chenin vines set within a walled garden, the perimeter walls enclose 11 parallel walls 2m high running east to west. The vines are planted on the north face of the walls and are trained to pass through a hole in the walls to grow on the other side, facing due south…allowing them to have ‘feet in the shade and their bellies in the sun’..the result is a unique complex white wine that had a mineral fruity base, but amazing caramel and toffee finish, it’s not cheap at €80 a bottle but they also have a good range across different price points.
Domain Breton, Catherine & Pierre Breton make beautiful organic wine, the vineyard was closed in August, but they have the loveliest wine shop in Chinon, (an old Manor House) where you can taste all 13 of their wines and buy some very cool wine art..
Domaine de la Chevalerie, the red was delicious and recommended by the wonderful Becky @therlws, so therefore should be on everyone’s list.
Le Ver Vert, located in Montsoreau by the river - dynamic young couple using local products and organic wines, set in a beautiful courtyard, fantastic service and great food and there is also a market here on Sunday’s, so it makes a great post shop lunch stop, (try saying that after a few glasses..)
Chateau Rivière, this is where we stayed for the week, Hubert and his family make wonderful organic wines, with a rich history and genuine sense of place. The reds are delicious and so is the Chenin Blanc, which is new to the portfolio, super delicate, fruity, floral with a hint of honey. The accommodation is also wonderful set in the converted stable block of the Chateau and the wine tasting with Hubert is a must. www.chateaderiviere.com
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